Dhofar Frankincense Trade

Dhofar in southern Oman has had a long association with the frankincense trade. The most active period was from the first century BC to the fourth century AD. During this period the Roman Empire had a great demand for the precious gum. Classical authors say that there was a gold drain on their economy in the eastern empire such was the demand for it. Strabo says that sometimes there were caravans of 2000 camels at one time although it is not known whether such large caravans travelled from Dhofar or from present-day Yemen (1).

Wendell Phillips wrote about frankincense in the 1950s and 60s: “The ancient kings of Hadramaut had to secure Andhur Oasis to control the vital frankincense trade; the fortress on the ridge was designed to accomplish this objective. Even today (1960) camel trails can be seen leading out to the north-west in the direction of Shisr; another route leads west-south-west to the post of Hanun, where the frankincense collection centre described above was partially cleared… Mirbat is only 40 miles due south of Andhur Oasis, but a direct route is rendered impossible by the precipitous southern face of the intervening Jabal Samhan…” (2). Some Mahra interviewed by him stated that it took 3 or 4 days’ camel journey to reach Salalah from Andhur.

I dispute Philips saying that there was no direct route down Jebel Samhan to Mirbat. In 1999 three Dhofari friends and I walked along the top of the escarpment east of Mirbat until we reached Wadi Kharis (about 1700 m.). This deep valley runs north south and eventually leads to Wadi Andhur 40 km to the north. However, we descended the cliff face along an old narrow camel track and came out at Sawb on the plains near Jufa. This is one of the few places where it’s possible to come down the cliff between Mirbat and Hadbeen.

Frankincense was exported from ports along the Dhofar coast up until the 1950s. Of course frankincense is still exported today although in much smaller quantities. Frankincense harvested from the eastern Dhofar mountains — that is the mountains above Mirbat, also known as Solot — was transported by camel to Mirbat and further to the north-east, Hasik. In December 1894 Theodore Bent and his travelling party journeyed from Mirbat to Al-Haffa by baggala – an Arab sailing ship – which was carrying a ‘large cargo’ of frankincense for Bombay. The 40 mile journey from Mirbat to Al-Haffa took them two days because of opposing winds. However Bent comments that one of the songs the sailors sang was about frankincense (3).

References

(1) Nigel Broom, “Frankincense and Myrrh”.
(2) Wendell Phillips, “Unknown Oman”, p.201
(3) Theodore Bent, “Exploration of the Frankincense country of southern Arabia” (1900), p.233

Camping in Dhofar

Camping. Here are a few off-the-beaten-track coastal camping spots: Dhalkut, Rakhyut, Mughsayl [1], Khor Rori [2], Hinu area (beyond Mirbat); Mahallah and Gangri (both near Sadh); Hadbeen and Hasik. In most of these places, drive a couple of kilometres away from the town or village and you will find good camp sites. There are many other (inland) sites, although their suitability for camping depends on the time of year and weather conditions, especially temperature, humidity and wind.

It’s advisable to camp in groups of more than 3 or 4 people. Probably the only place where you can leave your gear unattended for the day is at Mughsayl. However, take your valuables with you. There are very few places that have facilities (toilets, running water) so be prepared!

Beaches near Salalah for picnics. Following are some popular, and usually, safe beaches [3]: Mughsayl, Al-Awqad, Al-Haffa, Dahariz, Taqa, Ajoont, Mirbat, Hinu.

———–

[1] This is an ideal place to camp as there are about 20 pergolas along the beach which can be used to camp in. However, on holiday weekends like Eid, you need to be early otherwise others will occupy them for the whole weekend.

[2] Not suitable for swimming at any time of the year.

[3] During the Khareef season (May – October), swimming is not permitted in any of the beaches of Dhofar, not that you would want to, as it is generally very dangerous with unpredictable rips and undertows.

Kaffirs Rock (Ras Nus)

© Ross Hayden. Kaffirs Rock, Hadbeen, Dhofar, Oman

Local Dhofaris tell the story of shipwrecked European sailors who, many years ago, took refuge atop this large rock shaped like a stack of pancakes. Because their clothes were in tatters after their swim ashore, a local man thought from their white appearance that they were jinn and ran away! Even today it is a very well-known traveller’s landmark. [Note: kaffir = unbeliever = European; jinn = spirits]

Image is Rights Managed and available for licensing through GulfImages.